One of the true hidden treasures of Georgia lies in the south of the country near the town of Aspindza – the underground fortress and monastery complex of Vardzia. Carved precariously from a sheer rock face, hundreds of interconnected rooms emerge and descend into the rock, creating an ancient labyrinth. The complex began construction in the 12th century under the rule of Queen Tamar, and proved valuable as a safe haven from attacks by the Mongols. The result was an astonishing 13-tier complex of over 600 cave rooms. Many of the rooms contained detailed frescoes and paintings, still seen today.

However, a century later in 1283 an entirely different enemy in the form of an earthquake left most of the city uninhabitable – although some persisted living there until the 16th century. Today, Vardzia is a symbol of the golden period of Georgian history, especially that of Queen Tamar who helped propel a cultural renaissance of the nation. Wandering the stone rooms and imagining life those many years ago is a haunting reminder of the extremes mankind has taken to survive.