Rising from the center of Angkor Thom is Bayon, the enigmatic temple known for its towers carved with monumental stone faces gazing out in all directions. Built in the late 12th century by King Jayavarman VII, Bayon anchors the ancient walled city as the empire's spiritual heart, and perhaps one of the most unique temples ever constructed by man. Climbing the steps, one becomes transfixed by the calm smiles on the giant faces adorning the  towers, where over 200 faces look across Bayon. Beneath the omnipresent eyes, bas-reliefs depict historic battles and daily life, blending religion  and empire. After Angkor Wat, I found these reliefs the most impressive in all of Angkor.

Today Bayon draws visitors who marvel at its grandeur and symbolism. Our visit brought us to this temple nearing sundown, when a mighty storm was brewing overhead. Clambering through the dark chambers, hearing nothing but our footsteps and the thundering boom outside, we felt transported to a different dimension. Every now and then we creepback into the daylight, only to find a peering, carved face looking wisely down. Truely a unique and memorable experience.